How to close a lined garment | Clean, invisible finish
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How to close a lined garment | Clean, invisible finish
Closing a lined garment is one of the final steps that transforms a project into a truly finished piece. This tutorial walks you through a simple and effective method for hemming and closing the lining opening with clean, invisible results — perfect for coats, jackets, skirts, and dresses.
Materials needed
- Matching thread
- Hand sewing needle
- Scissors
- Pins or clips
- Iron (optional but recommended)
Step-by-step instructions
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Sew the hem and trim excess fabric
Align the right sides of the main fabric and the lining or facing, then sew the bottom hem making sure the side seam edges match. You will notice extra fabric forming a small triangle at the side seams — trim this on both sides for a cleaner result. Be sure to leave a generous opening so you can turn the garment right side out afterward.
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Fold and pin the hem
With the garment right side out, fold up the hem to your desired length and check that it is even all the way around. Pin it carefully along the fold line, then turn the garment inside out so the wrong side is facing you and you can access the hem for hand stitching.
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Hand stitch the hem
Starting at one end, insert your needle into the folded hem and take a small stitch through the main fabric, catching just a few threads so nothing shows on the outside. Continue stitching evenly along the hem with consistent spacing. At the end, knot the thread securely and trim the excess.
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Close the opening
Turn the garment right side out again. Fold in the raw edges at the lining opening along the seamline and close it by hand using a blind stitch or ladder stitch — both give a completely invisible result. Press the closed seam lightly to finish.
Pro tip
Press the hem fold with an iron before hand stitching — a crisp, well-pressed fold is much easier to work with and produces more even stitches. Keep your tension light throughout so the stitches don’t pull the fabric, and always check the right side of the garment regularly as you go to make sure nothing is showing through.
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