How to Insert an Invisible Zipper into a Lined Garment | All the Way to the Top Edge | Step-by-Step Sewing Tutorial
Select high quality and adjust playback speed using the controls at the bottom right of the video.
How to sew an invisible zipper into a lined garment | Finished to the top edge
An invisible zipper that extends all the way to the top edge of a lined garment needs to be finished carefully so the zipper remains hidden, both sides of the neckline meet at exactly the same height and the lining sits neatly inside without adding unnecessary bulk.
In this tutorial, you will learn how to insert the invisible zipper, sew and understitch the neckline, attach the facing or lining to the zipper tape and close the lining for a clean, professional interior. This technique works especially well for lined dresses, tops and skirts where the zipper finishes directly at the upper edge of the garment.
If your invisible zipper is inserted in the middle of a seam rather than finishing at the top edge, follow this tutorial instead →
Materials needed
- Invisible zipper
- Garment and lining or facing pieces
- Matching thread
- Invisible zipper foot
- Regular zipper foot
- Pins or sewing clips
- Fabric scissors
- Iron and ironing surface
Before you start
Follow the seam allowance and zipper placement indicated in your sewing pattern. Before attaching the lining, close the zipper and check that both sides of the garment meet at exactly the same height at the top edge.
It is much easier to correct a small difference in zipper position before the neckline and lining are completed. Accurate alignment at this stage is what gives the finished garment a clean, symmetrical top edge.
Invisible zipper finishing at the top edge
When an invisible zipper finishes directly at a neckline or other upper edge, the zipper, lining and neckline finish all meet in the same small area. Careful trimming, understitching and accurate positioning of the lining help reduce bulk and keep the zipper discreet when the garment is closed.
Step-by-step instructions
-
-
Sew the invisible zipper to the garment
Attach the invisible zipper to the garment using an invisible zipper foot and the method shown in the video. Sew close to the zipper teeth without stitching into them.
Once both sides are attached, close the zipper and check that it moves smoothly and that the two upper edges of the garment finish at the same height. Correct any difference before continuing.
-
-
-
Pin the lining or facing to the neckline
Place the lining and/or facing against the garment with right sides together. Match the neckline edges, centres, seams and any pattern notches before pinning or clipping everything securely in place.
Take particular care close to the zipper opening. Accurate positioning here will help both sides of the finished neckline meet neatly when the zipper is closed.
-
-
-
Sew the neckline
Sew around the neckline using the seam allowance indicated in your pattern. Keep the stitching smooth and consistent, especially around curves.
As you approach the zipper area, work slowly so the top edge remains accurately positioned and both sides finish symmetrically.
-
-
-
Trim and clip the neckline seam
Carefully trim the neckline seam allowance to reduce unnecessary bulk. Clip curved areas where needed so the seam allowance can spread when the neckline is turned to the right side.
Work carefully around the zipper area and avoid cutting into the stitching or zipper tape.
-
-
-
Understitch the neckline
Press the neckline seam allowance toward the facing or lining. Understitch on the lining or facing side a few millimetres from the seam, catching the seam allowance underneath.
Understitching encourages the lining to roll naturally toward the inside of the garment and helps prevent it from becoming visible along the finished neckline.
-
-
-
Position the lining or facing around the zipper
Arrange the lining or facing right sides together with the garment so the zipper tape is enclosed between the layers, following the construction shown in the video.
Smooth the layers before pinning. Make sure the lining is not twisted and that the neckline edge remains properly aligned at the top of the zipper.
-
-
-
Sew the lining along the zipper tape
Using a zipper foot, sew along the zipper tape on both sides to secure the lining or facing in place. Sew slowly near the top edge, where several layers meet.
Before moving on, check that the lining has been caught evenly and is not sitting so close to the zipper teeth that it could interfere with the slider.
-
-
-
Close the zipper and check the top edge
Carefully close the zipper all the way to the top and inspect the finished upper edge before closing the remainder of the lining.
Both sides of the neckline should meet at the same height, the zipper should remain hidden and the lining should stay inside the garment. If something is misaligned, correcting it now is easier than after the lining seam has been completed.
-
-
Close the lining seam
Place the lining pieces right sides together and pin from the zipper area downward. Sew the lining seam toward the hem following the construction of your garment.
Press the completed lining seam and give the finished zipper and neckline a final press so the inside of the garment sits smoothly and cleanly.
Professional sewing tip
Before inserting the zipper, gently press the zipper coils open using an appropriate iron temperature for your zipper and fabric. This can make it easier to sew close to the coils so the zipper remains discreet. Press again after understitching the neckline, paying particular attention to the top zipper area where several layers meet.
Common invisible zipper problems in lined garments
One side of the neckline is higher than the other
The zipper may have been attached slightly higher on one side. Close the zipper and compare the upper edges before attaching the lining. Even a small difference can become noticeable at the finished neckline.
The zipper is visible when the garment is closed
Check whether the stitching is close enough to the zipper coils and whether the seam has been pressed correctly. Avoid sewing into the coils, as this can stop the zipper from moving freely.
The neckline feels bulky beside the zipper
Several layers meet in this area. Make sure the neckline seam allowances have been trimmed appropriately and that all layers are lying flat before turning and pressing the neckline.
The lining catches in the zipper
Check that the lining is secured neatly to the zipper tape without sitting too close to the zipper teeth. Test the zipper several times before closing the lining seam completely.
The lining rolls toward the outside at the neckline
Make sure the neckline has been properly understitched and pressed toward the inside. Understitching helps keep the lining or facing slightly behind the garment edge so it remains hidden when worn.
Related invisible zipper tutorials
AinaSewingPatterns tutorial
This tutorial is part of the AinaSewingPatterns sewing library, created to help you achieve clean, professional garment finishes using practical techniques you can apply to your own sewing projects.
Want to keep building your sewing skills? Browse all our step-by-step sewing video tutorials.
Ready for your next sewing project? Discover our PDF sewing patterns.
Need help? Use our live chat or leave us a message — we’ll get back to you as soon as possible.