How to choose the right fabric for your sewing project
Quick test in the shop: pull the fabric crosswise — if it stretches and bounces back, it’s a knit.
How to measure stretch percentage: fold the fabric, hold 10 cm between your fingers, and gently stretch it along the crosswise grain. If 10 cm stretches to 12 cm, that’s 20% stretch; to 15 cm, that’s 50%. This matters because knit patterns specify a minimum — every one of our patterns for stretch fabrics lists it right on the product page, so check it before buying. Less stretch than the pattern asks for means a garment you can’t move in.
If you’re shopping online and can’t touch the fabric, GSM (grams per square meter) is your most reliable clue: under 130 gsm is light (blouses, linings, floaty dresses), 130–250 gsm is medium (most dresses, skirts and tops), and above 250 gsm is heavy (pants, jackets, coats and bags).
The shop test is simple: unroll half a meter and let it hang from your hand. Does it flow like water or stand like paper? Neither is better — they’re just meant for different designs.
📌 Fabric Cheat Sheet by Garment
Save this table for your next shopping trip:
| You want to sew… | Best fabrics | Look for |
|---|---|---|
| A crisp blouse or shirt | Cotton poplin, lawn, linen | Light woven, some body |
| A flowy dress or drapey top | Viscose, crepe, satin | Light–medium woven, fluid drape |
| A t-shirt or fitted knit dress | Cotton jersey, interlock | Knit, 20–40% stretch |
| Leggings or a body-hugging dress | Jersey with elastane | Knit, 40%+ stretch with recovery |
| Tailored pants or a jacket | Cotton twill, gabardine, denim | Medium–heavy woven, structured |
| An elegant evening piece | Satin, silk, crepe de chine | Light woven, high drape, shine |
| A cozy winter coat | Wool coating, boiled wool | Heavy woven, warm, stable |
- Once you’ve chosen your fabric, pair it with the right needle — see our guide on how to choose the right sewing machine needle.