How to understitch a facing or lining
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How to Understitch a Facing or Lining
Understitching is one of those small techniques that makes a big difference. By securing the seam allowance to the facing or lining, it prevents rolling and keeps the edges crisp and neatly hidden — for a clean, professional finish that lasts.
Materials Needed
- Garment with facing or lining attached
- Matching sewing thread
- Iron
- Sewing machine
Step-by-Step Guide
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1
Sew the seam
Sew the garment and the facing or lining right sides together, stitching along the seam line as indicated in the pattern. Sew carefully and evenly so that the seam allowance is the same width throughout.
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2
Clip the seam allowances
Clip or notch the seam allowances as needed, especially in curved areas. This releases the tension and allows the seam to lie flat and even once the facing is turned to the inside.
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3
Understitch
Press the seam allowances toward the facing or lining. Understitch about 3 mm from the seam line, sewing through the facing and both layers of seam allowance together. Sew from either the right or wrong side depending on your preference — whichever gives you more control.
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4
Press
Press the seam carefully so that the facing or lining naturally rolls to the inside. This final pressing gives the edge its crispness — take your time, because a well-pressed facing makes a considerable difference to the overall result.
Pro Tip
Understitch as far as you can along the entire length of the seam — the more you sew, the better the facing stays in place over time. In tight areas the machine can’t reach, like narrow corners or sleeve openings, thorough pressing with a hot iron does a good job too.
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