How to sew an invisible zipper on a lined garment | Inserted in the middle of a seam | Step-by-step sewing tutorial

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How to sew an invisible zipper on a lined garment | Inserted in the middle of a seam

Learn how to insert an invisible zipper into a lined garment in the middle of a seam — with no gaps and no bulk. This tutorial guides you through every step for a clean, professional finish, perfect for dresses, skirts, or any lined project.

If your invisible zipper is placed all the way to the top edge, watch this tutorial instead →

Materials needed

  • Invisible zipper
  • Matching thread
  • Lining fabric
  • Chalk or fabric marker
  • Invisible zipper foot
  • Pins or clips
  • Iron

Step-by-step instructions

Note: the cross marked on the lining in the video indicates the wrong side of the lining fabric.

  1. Mark the stitching points

    Start by marking the exact points where your stitching will begin and end on the zipper tape, the main fabric, and the lining. Clear, accurate marks are essential for a well-aligned zipper with no gaps at the ends.

  2. Sew the invisible zipper

    Using your invisible zipper foot, place the left side of the zipper right sides together with the left fabric piece and pin in place. Repeat for the right side. Sew close to the zipper teeth on both sides without stitching over them, then test that the zipper opens and closes smoothly before continuing.

  3. Close the upper and lower fabric sections

    Place the main fabric pieces right sides together and pin the sections above and below the zipper. Sew starting from the existing seam lines, overlapping slightly at the zipper ends to ensure a clean, secure closure with no gap at the bottom of the zipper.

  4. Secure the bottom of the zipper

    Stitch each end of the zipper tape to the seam allowance to anchor it in place. This prevents the zipper from shifting or pulling away from the seam over time.

  5. Close the lining up to the notch

    Align the lining and fabric right sides together. Pin carefully and sew up to the notch, making sure everything is aligned for a smooth, even finish along the lining seam.

  6. Attach the lining to the zipper

    Place the fabric and lining wrong sides together. Fold the seam allowance of the lining inward against the wrong side of the zipper — the right side of the lining should face the wrong side of the zipper, and the right side of the fabric should face the right side of the zipper. Pin all three layers together and use a zipper foot to sew close to the teeth. Slide the zipper pull down before starting; when you reach it, stop, lift the foot, move the pull to the top, lower the foot, and continue. Repeat on the opposite side.

  7. Close the bottom of the lining

    Align the lining pieces right sides together, pin carefully, and sew from the previous stitching point downward to close the lining completely. Press the finished seam for a smooth, professional result.

Pro tip

Before stitching, gently press the zipper teeth open with a warm iron — this allows you to sew much closer to the teeth and produces a truly invisible result. Also take a moment to test the zipper after each main step so you can catch any alignment issues early, before the lining is attached.

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