How to sew a hidden bias binding | Neckline, sleeve & hem tutorial
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How to sew a hidden bias binding | Neckline, sleeve & hem tutorial
Hidden bias binding is one of the most elegant ways to finish a neckline, sleeve, or hem — no visible stitching on the outside, just a clean, polished edge. This technique works beautifully on both curved and straight edges, and is suitable for beginners and more experienced sewists alike.
Materials needed
- Bias binding (cut 20 cm longer than your edge)
- Matching thread
- Iron and pins or clips
- Sewing machine
- Hand-sewing needle (optional, for slip stitching)
Step-by-step instructions
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Cut and prepare the bias strip
Cut your bias binding about 20 cm longer than the edge you’ll be finishing — this extra length gives you enough to join the ends neatly. Open one fold of the bias and align its raw edge with the raw edge of your garment, right sides together.
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Pin and sew the bias strip
Start pinning about 7–10 cm from the beginning of the strip, leaving a tail free for joining later. Pin along the neckline, hem, or sleeve edge, then sew along the fold of the bias using a seam allowance that matches the fold width — typically 0.5 cm for a 2 cm wide bias.
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Join the ends
Stop sewing 5–6 cm before reaching the starting point. Fold the left end of the bias over the right, mark where they overlap, then sew the two ends right sides together at that mark. Trim the seam allowance and press it open. Finish sewing the remaining gap to complete the circle.
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Fold and press
Press the bias binding away from the garment to set the seam. Then fold the binding over to the inside of the garment, enclosing the raw edge completely. Press firmly along the fold to keep everything flat and in position.
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Pin and stitch in place
Pin or clip the folded binding in place from the wrong side of the garment. Sew close to the edge of the binding, stitching from the right side and making sure to catch the binding evenly underneath. Stitch slowly and check regularly that the binding is caught all the way around.
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Optional: topstitch from the right side
For extra security or a more decorative finish, you can add a topstitch from the right side of the garment. This gives the edge a neat, tailored look and prevents the binding from rolling out over time.
Pro tip
This technique works best on lightweight to medium-weight fabrics. For curved edges like necklines, gently stretch the bias as you pin to help it ease around the curve without puckering. Pressing at every step is essential — a well-pressed binding is much easier to stitch down evenly and gives a truly professional result.
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