How to sew an exposed elastic waistband | Step-by-step tutorial for pants & skirts
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How to sew an exposed elastic waistband | Step-by-step tutorial for pants & skirts
An exposed elastic waistband is comfortable, stretchy, and adds a sporty, modern touch to trousers, skirts, and shorts. This tutorial walks you through every step for a neat, professional result that holds its shape over time.
Materials needed
- Wide elastic (cut to fit your waist snugly)
- Matching thread
- Scissors or rotary cutter
- Pins or clips
- Ballpoint needle
Step-by-step instructions
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Join the ends of the elastic
Join the elastic ends using a French seam for a strong, neat join with no exposed edges. First place the wrong sides together and sew a straight seam, then fold so the right sides are together and sew again to enclose the raw edge completely.
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Divide the elastic and waistline into quarters
Fold the elastic band into quarters and mark each point with a pin. Do the same for the waistline of your garment. These quarter marks help you distribute the elastic evenly around the full waistline without any section pulling more than another.
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Pin the elastic to the garment
Place the wrong side of the elastic against the wrong side of the waistline, aligning each quarter pin on the elastic with the corresponding pin on the garment. Pin or clip in place at all four points before sewing.
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Sew the elastic to the waistline
Using a zigzag or stretch stitch, sew the elastic to the waistline section by section, gently stretching the elastic between each pin so the fabric gathers evenly underneath. Working section by section gives you the control you need for a consistent result all the way around.
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Trim the seam allowance
After sewing, trim any excess fabric close to the seam to reduce bulk and keep the waistband sitting flat and comfortable. Be careful not to cut into the elastic as you trim.
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Topstitch the elastic in place
Flip the elastic up so it sits on the outside of the garment. Sew along the bottom edge of the elastic, stretching it slightly as you go to keep everything smooth and stretchy. This final line of stitching secures the waistband and gives it a clean, finished appearance.
Pro tip
Use a ballpoint needle to avoid damaging the elastic fibres, and always test your stitch length and tension on a scrap piece before sewing your actual waistband. A stitch that is too tight will limit the stretch of the elastic and make the waistband uncomfortable to wear.
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