How to Sew a Visible Bias Binding on a Neckline, Sleeve Hem

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Cut a strip of bias 20cm longer than you need.

Open out one of the folds of the binding and line it up with the raw edge of your garment at the neckline, hem… right side of the binding facing right side of the main fabric.

A – Pin at 10 cm from the beginning of the binding until 10cm before the end.

B – Use a seam allowance equal to 1/4 of the width of your bias binding when sewing. For example, if your bias binding has a finished width of 2cm (which opens up to 4cm), sew it using a 0.5cm seam allowance.

C – When you reach the edge where you started, join the 2 ends of the bias tape by folding the left side of the bias tape vertically, while the right side goes over the left side at a right angle, right sides together. Pin as shown in the illustration, sew, and then trim the excess fabric. Continue pinning the bias tape.

D – Sew all around the binding.

E – Fold the binding in half widthwise towards the wrong side of the garment, ensuring to cover the stitch, and secure it with pins. Now, with the wrong side of the garment facing you, topstitch along the edge of the binding, approximately 0.15cm (9/16 inch) from the edge. Use the first stitch as a guide to ensure accurate sewing.

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