How to finish a waistband with a fly or button placket | Step-by-step sewing tutorial
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How to finish a waistband with a fly or button placket | Step-by-step sewing tutorial
A neatly finished waistband is one of the details that defines a well-made garment. This tutorial guides you through every stage of finishing a waistband cleanly when sewing pants or skirts with a fly front or button placket — with sharp corners and a perfectly positioned facing.
Materials needed
- Outer waistband
- Waistband facing
- Main fabric garment
- Matching thread
- Pins or clips
- Iron
- Corner turner (optional)
Step-by-step instructions
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Attach the outer waistband
Place the outer waistband right sides together with the garment, letting it extend 1 cm on each side beyond the opening. Pin carefully and stitch along the seam line, making sure the extension is even on both sides.
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Prepare the waistband facing
Press the waistband facing thoroughly, then fold 1 cm to the wrong side along the lower edge and press again. A well-pressed facing is much easier to position accurately in the later steps.
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Join the facing and the outer waistband
Place the facing and the outer waistband right sides together, aligning carefully along the top edge. Pin in place and stitch. Check that both layers are even before sewing to avoid any twisting.
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Understitch
Press the seam allowances toward the facing, then understitch a few millimetres from the seam, stitching through the facing and seam allowances only. This prevents the facing from rolling to the outside and keeps the top edge of the waistband crisp.
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Turn the waistband
Place the waistband and facing right sides together and turn them to the inside of the garment. Fold the facing seam allowance outward, then stitch the 1 cm seam allowance on the extended section at each end to close the sides neatly.
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Shape the corners
Trim any excess fabric at the corners to reduce bulk, then clip them carefully. Use a corner turner to push the corners out fully for a sharp, clean finish. Press once more after turning.
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Finish the inside of the waistband
Position the facing neatly inside the garment, fold the 1 cm allowance to the inside, and align it with the waistband seam. Pin in place and stitch close to the edge on the facing side to secure everything cleanly in position.
Pro tip
Press carefully at every step — especially after understitching and before turning the waistband. Thorough pressing is what gives the waistband its sharp edges and makes each subsequent step much easier to handle. A corner turner is a small investment that makes a big difference to the final result.
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