How to sew a pocket in the side seam | Invisible and functional
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How to sew a pocket in the side seam | Invisible and functional
Inseam pockets are a discreet and practical feature for dresses, skirts, and trousers — invisible from the outside, yet fully functional. This tutorial shows you how to sew a clean and secure side seam pocket with lining and facing, so you can add functionality to your garment without compromising the design.
Materials needed
- Main fabric and lining fabric for the pocket pieces
- Matching thread
- Scissors
- Tailor’s chalk or erasable pencil
- Iron
- Pins or clips
Step-by-step instructions
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Assemble the pocket pieces
Place each pocket’s facing and lining right sides together and sew along the curved edge. Press the seam open for a smooth finish. Repeat for the second pocket so both are ready before you move on.
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Mark the pocket placement
Use tailor’s chalk or an erasable pencil to clearly mark the pocket opening on both the garment pieces and the pocket pieces. Accurate markings here ensure the pockets sit at exactly the right height on both sides.
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Attach the pocket to the front and back
Place the front pocket piece right sides together with the front garment piece, aligning the marked lines. Pin in place and sew along the edge. Understitch close to the seam to keep the pocket from rolling out, then press the seam allowance toward the lining side and sew a parallel line through the seam allowance and facing for a clean finish. Repeat the same process for the back pocket on the back garment piece.
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Join front and back
Place the front and back garment pieces with their attached pockets right sides together. Pin carefully all around the side seams and along the pocket curves. Sew the side seams in one continuous line, pivoting smoothly around the pocket opening to enclose it fully and keep the bag secure.
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Turn and press
Turn your garment right side out and press the side seams and pocket edges thoroughly. Your inseam pockets are now neatly sewn and completely hidden within the seams — functional and invisible from the outside.
Pro tip
For pockets that lie flat and don’t peek out at the opening, press the pocket bags toward the front of the garment before sewing the final side seam. This keeps everything neatly tucked in. Using a slightly lighter lining fabric for the pocket bag also reduces bulk and makes the pocket more comfortable to use.
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