How to sew a pocket in the side seam | Invisible and functional
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How to sew a side seam pocket | Invisible in-seam pocket tutorial
A side seam pocket is a discreet and practical way to add storage to dresses, skirts and trousers without interrupting the design of the garment. When sewn correctly, the pocket opening sits directly in the side seam and remains almost invisible from the outside.
In this tutorial, you will learn how to assemble the pocket facing and lining, mark the opening accurately, attach the pocket pieces to the front and back of the garment, understitch the opening and sew the side seam and pocket bag together for a clean, professional finish.
Materials needed
- Main fabric pocket facing pieces
- Lining fabric for the pocket bags
- Matching thread
- Fabric scissors
- Tailor’s chalk or erasable fabric marker
- Ruler or measuring tape
- Pins or sewing clips
- Iron and ironing surface
- Sewing machine
Before you start
Transfer the pocket placement marks from your sewing pattern accurately onto both the front and back garment pieces. The opening marks need to match exactly when the side seams are joined.
If you are sewing pockets on both sides of the garment, compare the markings before sewing to make sure both pocket openings will sit at the same height.
Why use a facing and lining for the pocket?
Using the main fabric at the pocket opening keeps the visible area consistent with the garment, while a lighter lining fabric can reduce bulk inside the pocket bag. This is especially useful when the main garment fabric is medium-weight or structured.
Step-by-step instructions
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Assemble the pocket facing and lining
Place each pocket facing and its corresponding lining piece right sides together. Sew along the curved joining edge following the construction shown in the video.
Press the seam carefully so the joined pocket piece lies flat. Repeat for the second pocket piece before attaching either pocket to the garment.
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Mark the pocket opening
Using tailor’s chalk or an erasable fabric marker, transfer the pocket opening marks onto both the garment pieces and the corresponding pocket pieces.
Check the placement before sewing. Accurate markings ensure that the front and back pocket pieces meet correctly and that the opening begins and ends at the intended points in the side seam.
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Attach the pocket pieces to the front and back
Place the front pocket piece right sides together with the front garment piece, matching the marked pocket opening precisely. Pin or clip it in position and sew along the pocket opening edge.
Press the seam allowance toward the pocket and understitch close to the seam. This helps keep the pocket facing rolled toward the inside so it does not peek out through the side seam opening.
Add the parallel securing line through the seam allowance and facing as shown in the video, then repeat the same process with the second pocket piece on the back garment piece.
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Join the front and back and sew around the pocket
Place the front and back garment pieces right sides together. Match the side seams and align the two pocket pieces so the marked pocket openings meet exactly.
Pin or clip around the side seam and pocket bag, making sure the pocket pieces lie flat without twisting.
Sew the side seam and pocket bag following the continuous sewing line shown in the video. Work smoothly around the pocket curves so the bag is completely enclosed and securely attached to the side seam.
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Turn, position and press the pocket
Turn the garment right side out and gently push the pocket bag toward the front of the garment.
Press the side seam and pocket opening carefully so the facing remains hidden inside and the opening lies flat against the garment.
Check the pocket from the right side. The side seam should remain clean and uninterrupted, with the pocket opening discreetly concealed within it.
Professional sewing tip
Press the pocket bags toward the front of the garment before giving the side seam its final press. This helps keep the pocket opening flat and reduces the chance of the facing rolling outward. If your main fabric is bulky, using a lighter lining fabric for most of the pocket bag can also make the finished pocket less bulky and more comfortable.
Choosing fabric for a side seam pocket
Using the garment fabric at the pocket opening helps the pocket blend naturally into the side seam. The rest of the pocket bag can be made from a lighter lining fabric when appropriate, which reduces thickness without changing the appearance from the outside.
Common side seam pocket problems
The pocket facing is visible from the outside
Make sure the pocket opening has been understitched and pressed toward the inside. The pocket bag should also lie toward the front of the garment rather than pulling toward the side seam opening.
One pocket sits higher than the other
Compare the pocket placement marks on both sides before attaching the pocket pieces. Even a small difference in the opening position can become noticeable once the garment is finished.
The pocket bag feels twisted
Before sewing the final side seam, lay both pocket pieces flat and check that the lining is not twisted or caught incorrectly between the garment layers.
The pocket feels bulky
The pocket bag may be adding too many layers in the side seam. When suitable for the garment, use the main fabric only for the visible facing area and a lighter lining fabric for the rest of the pocket bag.
The pocket opening does not lie flat
Check the understitching and press the pocket bag toward the front of the garment. A careful final press along the side seam helps the opening sit discreetly against the body.
Related pocket tutorials
AinaSewingPatterns tutorial
This tutorial is part of the AinaSewingPatterns sewing library, created to help you achieve clean, professional garment finishes using practical techniques you can apply to your own sewing projects.
Want to keep building your sewing skills? Browse all our step-by-step sewing video tutorials.
Ready for your next sewing project? Discover our PDF sewing patterns.
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