How to sew a perfect button placket | Step-by-step tutorial
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How to sew a perfect button placket | Step-by-step tutorial
A clean button placket is a classic tailoring detail that elevates any garment. This tutorial shows you how to sew a 3 cm wide placket on a 20 cm slit — perfect for shirts, tunics, dresses, and even the back opening of a slit skirt. Ideal for intermediate sewists or confident beginners looking to level up their skills.
Materials needed
- 2 fabric rectangles: 8 cm × 22 cm
- Matching thread
- Iron and pins or clips
- Fabric marker
- Serger or zigzag stitch for edge finishing
The 8 × 22 cm measurement breaks down as: 3 cm finished width × 2 = 6 cm, plus 2 cm seam allowance = 8 cm wide. The 20 cm slit plus 2 cm for clean finishing = 22 cm long.
Step-by-step instructions
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Mark the slit and stitching lines
Draw your 20 cm slit on the fabric, then draw two parallel lines on either side of it, 1.5 cm away from the centre on each side. These lines indicate exactly where to place and stitch the placket pieces — precise marking here is the foundation of a clean result.
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Prepare the placket pieces
Cut two rectangles measuring 8 × 22 cm. Fold each piece lengthwise with wrong sides together and press to create a sharp crease. Then mark a line 1.5 cm from the raw edge on the opposite side from the fold — this will guide your stitching when you attach the plackets.
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Attach the plackets
Place each placket piece with the folded edge out, aligning the marked stitching line with the corresponding guide line on the fabric. Pin carefully and stitch from top to bottom, stopping exactly at the end of the slit. Use a pin as a stopping point if needed — ending precisely here is essential for a clean finish.
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Cut the slit
Carefully cut along the centre slit line between the two stitching lines. At the bottom, snip a small V-notch into the corner — getting as close to the stitching as possible without cutting through it. This allows the fabric to spread flat and is the key to sharp, clean corners.
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Turn and press
Turn the plackets to the wrong side of the garment and press everything completely flat. The slit should now look crisp and neatly framed by both placket pieces. Take your time with the iron at this step — thorough pressing defines the final look of the placket.
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Overlap and secure
Overlap the plackets as desired — left over right or right over left. Tuck in the small triangle at the base of the slit and secure it with a horizontal stitch across the bottom. For an extra professional touch, add a decorative topstitch all around the placket.
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Finish the edges
Serge or overlock the raw edges of the plackets to prevent fraying and give the inside of the garment a neat, durable finish.
Pro tip
Before making your final placket, practice on a scrap of the same fabric. This lets you perfect your V-notch cutting and get comfortable with turning and overlapping the plackets at the tricky bottom point — without any risk to your actual garment.
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